Ploumis Brewery

In Nafpaktos, whose tiny horseshoe-shaped Venetian harbour watched the fleet of Lepanto sail past in 1571, the family-run Ploumis brewery works in the shadow of the fortress that tumbles down through five walls to the sea. It is the only brewing address in Aetolia-Acarnania, that corner of Western Greece wedged between the Gulf of Corinth, the Missolonghi lagoon and the Varasova mountains. Ten minutes from the Rio-Antirrio bridge, it offers travellers crossing from the Peloponnese to the mainland an ideal stop: a craft beer at the counter, facing the floodlit ramparts, before pushing on to Delphi, Galaxidi or the gulf's beaches.